this is copper sulphate and can be made up from crystals if you can get them. This latter method is very messy and awkward to clean up afterwards.įor a Copper finish: as above with the Black Patina solution but use the Copper finish solution. allow to dry for short while then polish with a soft cloth. Or apply graphite based grate finish paste. With the lead freshly cleaned in this way any patination applied will be very effective and also if applied properly will give an even result.įor a Blackened Finish: apply 'Black Patina' obtained from any leaded glass supplier, using a 1/2 inch brush. Whatever the desired finish I always use fine wire wool to lightly rub down all lead surfaces (solder and cames) to produce a uniform finish of clean lead. Having finished soldering and possibly cementing and cleaning you will be left with dirty surfaces. I have been making panels for many years and can offer some insight if useful. Black for lead :40 % ammonium sulfide solutionĪ. Continue brushing until desired finish is obtained, then wipe away excess solution." Reinhold PressĪ. Apply patina to lead and solder with a clear flux brush. Remove accumulated oxidation - properly prepared surface will appear bright and shiny. Directions: Thoroughly clean project to remove flux residue. "Contains nitric acid and selenium compounds. Application of the product according to instructions instantly turned the lead to a pleasing black patina and seems to have arrested the oxidation. I obtained a small bottle of Novacan Black Patina ->įrom a stained-glass person. I have a stained glass window, constructed in about 1985, which exhibited oxidation of the lead (white particulate at the junction of the lead and the glass pieces) around 1995. Since I am a total amateur in this field my input may be not on-track or useful, but then again it may.
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